
Picture of Yangshou on the Li River.
The following was written on 9/24th when I was still in Xiamen, China before leaving for Bangkok. I emailed it to my friends. Couldn't blog it since they blocked my blog in China.
"Huang Shan, Xi'an, Guilin, Yangshou, and Xiamen. Thailand is next"
Hi everyone,
wow, it's been almost 2 weeks since i'd written u last. can u believe this is the first time i got internet access since then? anyways, after i left suzhou on 9/9th, i took an 14 hour red-eye train from suzhou to huang shan (aka Yellow Mountain) to climb the almost 1900 meter high granite mountain. got to the mt in the afternoon of the 10th then spent the next 6 hours climbing upwards to the top. arrived at the summit at 7pm without any rooms booked. my friend xanthe and i met 1 dutch girl, 1 german girl, and a swiss couple along the way and climbed up all together. stayed at this hotel's staff dorm for 200 rmb (or $30 cdn) per bed. woke up at 4am to see the sunrise, but the sun was a no show, as there was only a 40% chance of seeing it according to the forecast. the view from the top was unreal. the climbing was worth it all, even though some parts were super steep and i, sometimes, had to be on all fours to climb the steep and wet granite stairs. (pictures to come by november when i get to Australia). did more climbing until 11am and we cheated by taking the cable car down the mountain by noon. got onto another mini bus for our 1 hour ride back into the city where we strolled around the old town for some eats before catching our 10 hour overnight train to Nanjing at 7pm.
arrived in nanjing at 5am, had some breakfast and checked into a "rent by the hour" hotel to shower and freshen up. went to this park for the afternoon before catching our transfer train ride the very same evening to Xi'an (another overnight 14 hour ride) to see the terra-cotta warriors from the Qin dynasty.
spent 3 days in Xi'an, did the warriors thing and checked out more eats around the muslim part of the city. ate no pork at all, as u can imagine being around the muslim part of the town. u ever had chicken feet or duck feet at them chinese restaurants? well, i had those, but can't say i ever had goat feet until Xi'an (knowingly). it tasted very sheepy, would skip it if given another opportunity to eat it. checked out the city wall. xi'an has one of the only 2 original/fully attached city walls in china left from the whatever dynasties (aren't u proud that i did my homework?). went to see the big goose pagoda where the famous monk, tang shan zhan, spent 19 years translating the buddahist scrolls he got from his trip to india. the pagoda itself wasn't impressive. would not go again. ps. i hate the fact that all the temples in china require admissions. i don't recall mandated admissions for churches in europe and temples in taiwan.
ok, now........i don't even know what date it was.....left xi'an on a 27 hour overnight train ride to Guilin. YES.....27 HOURS and 27 hours were spent sitting down, not on the sleeper train at all. it was quite an experience, i would recommend everybody who wants to waste 27 hours of their time on a train without any air con or hot showers (oh, don't forget the fact that smoking is not only permitted on the train, but also encouraged.........nice! i became a human version of the smoked salmon in no time). met more interesting locals on the train. chatted with them. listened to the obnoxicious euro-trance-pop playing from some old chinese guy's cell phone. chinese ppl love the trashy euro-trance. what ever happened to that gangsta rap i love. them chinese ppl really need to get into it (sorry for all the non-capitalization, abbreviations, and excessive use of sarcasm) i am a so-called habitual line stepper. i take it over way too many times, please bare with me.
fast forward to guilin, got there at 11pm at night, stayed at some seedy hostel across from the train station (my avg accommodation per night at hostels cost about 10 to 15 cdn dollars). went out to eat a much belated dinner around the "hood" (literally). wanted to get a hair cut, but they kept offering me massages from their ladies, not to mention other special services. i stayed far and away from the front door of the barber shop/happy ending palace. that pretty much ruined the beautiful guilin image for me. however, the next morning was great, as we did a bamboo raft tour down Li River for about 50 minutes and then went to see some limestone formations inside this cave at the seven star park. finally the night came and we checked out this i-don't-even-know-whatjumacallit show. it was like a ballet/chinese acrobat show. pretty interesting stuff as they didn't do the plates/bowls trick, but tossing chairs and spinning multiple umbrellas with their feet while balancing on their upper backs. thinking to myself, not sure what kinda talent i have in comparison to them. i can't use the excel spreadsheet very well nor can i make a mean yorkshire pudding. last time i checked, i could make my way to the fridge to grab an ice cold guiness without any assistance.
so anyways, made our way on a 4.5 hour boat tour downstream to yangshou where it is an international backpackers' heaven. strolled on the infamous West Street and exposed some scam-artist for his dirty trick in front of a bunch of his potential customers. he was not impressed with me at all. i dashed outa there quickly and peeped at him from far away while warning other tourist not to buy the self-dancing straw made puppets from him. oh yeah, during the 4.5 hour hours on the river, the karst/limestones scenaries are impressive to say the least. pretty much every interesting looking karst has a story behind it. anyways, taking u back to the west street, yangshou reminds me soo much of banff and canmore of alberta. just the sheer closness to the karst mountains reminds me of walking in banff and canmore.
had the famous "beer fish" (cooked with lots of chilli peppers, garlic and beer) for dinner and had a drink at a local bar where the drink itself cost more than my dinner. *plz see my section on "how to waste ur money buying booze at a bar when it only cost a fraction of the price while traveling overseas.
had a lazy morning the next day, but quickly gathered ourselves by noon and rented some mountain bikes from the hostel for 10 yuan/day (or about 1.5 dollar cdn per day). we headed out on a 5 hour bike ride around town to the backstreets or some small villages next to the karsts. and by small villages, i mean 20 families at the most. we stopped along the way for pictures of the natural beauty around town as well as paying 15 cents cdn for a photo with this old chinese lady's baby buffalo. not sure why, but while having the picture taken with the buffalo, all i could think about was buffalo wings and buffalo meat burgers at the good old gryph's pub at U of Guelph. (or was it bison burgers?)
alright, so finally 5 hours on the bike seat and under the unforgiving yangshou sun was more than enough. we hopped on an 80 minute long bus ride back to guilin from yangshou where we had another late dinner at the night market around the hostel. while eating, this girl (no older than 10) approached xanthe and i to buy flowers from her. i said no, but then asked her what's she doing out soo late and where are her parents. she looked nervous and looked away without answering my questions. then after an awkward minute long silence, she finally said.......that her parents are at home (though i could tell that she made it up). i didn't mean to interrogate her though i may have come across that way. i asked that isn't it a bit late for her to be out here selling flowers while her parents are at home and whether or not she has school the next morning. she replied that she has no money for school and asked for 1 rmb for food. i gave her the 1 dollar and she walked away.
about 30 minutes later, i brought it up with our waitress about the little girl. she said that the little girl is always around and lives at a orphanage. thinking to myself, what the heck is 1 rmb gonna buy her for food. my friend and i looked around for her after dinner and we bought her some rice noodles for food (only 6 rmb or 90 cents cdn) and some for the other 3 kids she was with. we walked away feeling better about it and perhaps feeling better about ourselves. about 10 minutes after we left the kids, i had the sudden urge to walk back to see if the kids are indeed eating the food; i am not sure why i even wanted to go back to check up on them. so we walked back towards them while staying about 20 meters away from them. i saw the little girl just slurping down the noodles, which i was feeling pretty good about, but didn't see the other 3 kids eating at all. i approached the other 3 kids and asked how come they were not eating the noodles we got for them. the oldest boy, about 13 years old, said that some guy saw us giving them food and gave them crap for taking food from us. so he tossed the noodles away. i wasn't sure what to think about it, but asked the boy whom gave him crap for taking food from us. he said he "didn't know"......... there were a few adults next to him and all listening in on our conversation at this time. i could sense that it was probably one of the adults around us that gave him shits for the food. not to put the boy on the spot, i just told him that next time, just eat the food and forget about what other ppl says. what i said to him was more of sending a msg to the adults around him. i was really more concerned about whether the 2 little girls ate; they were as young as 6.
oh, did i tell u that my friend and i got suckered into a scam by my fellow chinese brother without realizing it until a few hours later? i will save that for another time. good times! that story will be on my "why i love china" list.
alright, so fastforward to our overnight bus ride from guilin to our final stop in china........Xiamen on the south east coast a few hours train ride away north of hong kong. we couldn't get a train from guilin to xiamen so we took the long distance night bus which took another 16 hours to get to. u are going to love this. 30 beds on the bus, all of them beds about 2 feet across and 5'9" in length. i fit almost perfectly with some wiggle room. about 1hour before we got to xiamen the next morning, smoke started to come out of the washroom cabin, which was also right next to my bed. something was clearly burning. got the driver to pull over and open the door. all the passengers started to panic. (i swear i can't make this sh*t up). apparently something was wrong beneath the restroom cabin. but anyways, after the little scare, we got to our destination a-okay.
spent the last couple of days around xiamen and a day on the Gou Lan island checking out all the colonial buildings left from when the 13 countries' business ppl called xiamen home. xiamen was occupied by the dutch, french, german, portugueses, japanese......etc for a long time. it was interesting to foot the island, since no cars are allowed on it. ppl could take rides on golf carts, but we chose not to. i still think that walking around is the best way to get to know a city. buses, rickshaws, and metros just don't cut it. walked along the south china sea shore today after my friend xanthe left me to go back to taiwan. i will miss her company when i get to thailand and cambodia. not sure what i am doing tomorrow until my flight at 8pm from here to Bangkok, Thailand.
all i know is that i will be get to bangkok along at 11pm at night hungry and without any accommodations booked. very nice!!
alright, that's all for now. not sure when i will get internet access again. hopefully less than 2 weeks time.
peace out. *heard steve nash was in beijing 2 weeks ago.....too bad he missed me. i coulda hooked him up with some private tours in beijing and at the great walls. or we could exchange some "tao of the steves".